Feral Cat Caretaker Instructions: 
Safe and Humane Trapping

The following instructions have been adapted from the manual of Operation Catnip^TM. Operation Catnip is a non-profit organization at the University of Florida’s College of Veterinary Medicine dedicated to humanely reducing the homeless cat population through a no-cost trap-neuter-return program. For more information: visit their web site at www.operationcatnip.org .

Introduction
All cats deserve a safe and caring home. Unfortunately, many of the cats born each year are destined to be homeless. Some will be killed at animal control facilities; many more will lead bleak and short lives as unowned strays. Feral cats arise from these "throw away" cats. Neither pets nor wild-life, they roam farms, alleys, parks, restaurant dumpsters, hospitals, schools, or any other sites that might provide a source of food and shelter. Raised without human contact, they shun people and form colonies in which they reproduce further. In addition to the misery of the cats living a subsistence life-style, they become a public nuisance and consume a significant portion of local animal control budgets.

The traditional approach to controlling feral and stray cats is repeated extermination attempts. This is often a futile strategy, since other cats quickly replace the killed animals and begin the cycle of reproduction again. The plight of feral cats has captured the hearts of animal lovers for many years, but only recently has a non-lethal option for their control become available. Called "trap-neuter-return," this alternative involves spaying or neutering feral cats, then returning them to their colonies where they are looked after and fed by caretakers. Performed on a large scale, the success of such programs is felt at animal shelters where fewer cats are admitted for euthanasia. TNR programs succeed with the least cost to the public and provide the best possible lives for the cats themselves.

Caretakers capture the cats and bring them to their veterinarian to be spayed/neutered, vaccinated, and treated for internal parasites. The tip of the left ear is cropped to identify the cats as having been spayed/neutered. Caretakers must take responsibility for feeding and monitoring the health of the cats in the future. Caretakers are strongly encouraged to trap all of the cats in their colony, including kittens more than three months old, since even a few missed cats can quickly reproduce and negate all of the work just accomplished.

Humane Trapping Instructions
First, discuss your plans with your veterinarian and schedule an appointment for surgery. Next, contact other people around the area where you intend to trap so that everyone in the area understands what you are trying to do and neighbors can keep their pets confined.

If possible, get the cats used to being fed at the same time of the day. You might try leaving the trap (tied open with food in it) covered with a large towel or piece of cloth during routine feeding so that the animal will get used to seeing and smelling it in the area. DON'T FEED the cats the day/night before you are going to trap so the cats will be hungry. Be sure to notify others who may feed the cats not to leave food out either. Plan to trap so that you won't have to keep the cat too long before surgery. Trapping up to two days before your surgery appointment is usually the best approach. Prepare the area where you will be holding the cats before and after the clinic. A garage or other sheltered, warm, protected area is best. Lay down newspapers to catch the inevitable stool, urine, and food residue. Use pieces of wood or bricks to elevate the traps off the newspapers. This allows the mess to fall through the wire away from the cats. Spraying the area ahead of time with a cat-safe flea spray will discourage ants. Prepare the vehicle you will use to transport them as well. A plastic liner under the traps will prevent permanent urine damage.

Setting the Traps
Plan your day of trapping carefully. Remember that if you trap an animal and release it for some reason, it is unlikely that you will be able to catch it again. Don't trap in the rain or the heat of day. Cats are vulnerable in the traps and can suffer exposure during storms or heatstroke in the sun. USE COMMON SENSE! Plan to set the traps before the cats' normal feeding time. This is often at night. Dusk is usually the best time to set traps. Be sure the rear door of the trap, if present, is latched closed. Set the trap door and check the release mechanism by pushing the trip plate down with a pencil. The door should close smoothly and lock securely. Plan placement of the traps on a level surface in the area where the cats usually feed or have been seen. Cats are less likely to enter the trap if it wobbles. If trapping in a public area, try to place traps where they will not be noticed by passersby (who may not understand that you are not trying to harm the cats). Bushes are often places where cats hide and provide good camouflage for the trap.

Use smelly food to bait the trap. Canned mackerel is very effective and relatively inexpensive. Place a very small bite of food outside of the trap to draw the cat's interest, then a few crumbs of food leading into the very back of the trap where most of the food is. You want the cat to go all the way into the trap to avoid escape. Before trapping, a small bowl can be attached to the back corner of the trap. Plastic tupperware-type bowls work well and can be secured to the trap using cable ties. Securing the bowl to the trap ensures that it does not get turned over during transport, allowing food and water to be easily and safely provided for the cat during holding. Water can be poured into the bowl from a watering can with a long spout once the trap is occupied. Food can be dropped through the wire into the bowl from a safe distance.

Some cats are very good at getting in and out of traps without getting caught. For clever cats, tying a piece of meat to the inside rear of the trap may improve success. After baiting the trap, open the trap door by pushing the top of the door in and pulling the bottom of the door upward. There is a small hook attached to the right side of the trap top. It hooks onto a tiny metal cylinder on the right side of the door. The hook holds the door in an open position, which also raises the trip plate. When the cat steps on the plate it will cause the hook to release the door and close the trap. After setting the trap, cover it with a large towel or piece of cloth. Fold the material at the front end of the trap to expose the opening while still covering the top, sides, and back of the trap. The cover will help to camouflage the trap and calm the cat after it is caught.

Waiting for Success
Don't hang around within sight of the cats or you will make them wary or scare them off. Also, don't leave the traps unattended for long periods of time. Trapped cats are vulnerable, and passersby may release the cat or steal the trap. Check the traps periodically from a distance without disturbing the cats. As soon as a cat is trapped, cover the trap completely, and remove the trap from the area if other cats are not in sight. When you get the captured cat away from the other traps, lift the cover and check for signs that you have the correct cat and not a pet or previously neutered feral (ear tipped). If you note that you have captured a lactating female, check the area for kittens and remember this female must be released within 24 hrs so she can care for and nurse her kittens. Cover the cat back up as soon as possible. Uncovered, the cat may panic and may hurt itself thrashing around in the trap. There is always the chance that you will catch some other wild animal attracted to the food or an unintended cat. Simply release the animal quietly as stated in the releasing procedures on the following pages. Wash hands and change clothes before having contact with your own pets as a precaution against spreading any contagious diseases the cats might carry.

Helpful Hints
Bring a flashlight with you if you are trapping at night. This will come in handy for checking the traps from a distance. Bring a cap for the mackerel can. Nothing smells worse than fish juice spilled in the car. Don't forget a spoon!

Females with kittens will be attracted by the sound of their kittens. Previously trapped kittens can be placed in a carrier near the trap. Similarly, kittens will be easier to trap if their mom is in a trap or carrier nearby. Females in heat can be placed in a carrier to attract toms who have been eluding the traps. Never put the "bait" animal in the trap or it may be harmed by the trapped animal. Even moms can hurt their kittens if frightened enough. Some very young kittens can be caught without a trap, but are still too wild to be handled easily. Use a thick towel to pick up the kitten to protect yourself from scratching and biting. This will also prevent the kitten from squirming away from you. Very young kittens can sometimes be tamed and made into pets. Several web sites offer detailed instructions on taming ‘wild’ kittens.

Special Precautions
Because feral cats are in contact with wildlife, and because they will readily bite and scratch, feral cat caretakers and volunteers should consider receiving a 3-shot series of rabies vaccinations from the Public Health Department or a physician for their own protection. All cat bites and scratches are serious and should receive medical attention.
ALWAYS wear thick protective gloves when carrying a trap with a cat inside, and always keep the trap covered with a towel or blanket during transport. This will serve to calm the cat and to protect you. Never open a trap containing a cat (unless you are releasing it) and never place your exposed hands near a trap.

Holding Procedures
After you have finished trapping, you will probably have to hold the cats overnight until you can bring them to your veterinarian. Place the traps in the prepared protected area. Don't feed them if they are going to your veterinarian within 18 hours. Water should be provided. Keep the cats covered and check them periodically. They will usually be very quiet as long as they are covered. Don't stick fingers in the trap or allow children or pets near the traps. These are wild animals that will scratch and bite. Be sure they do not get overheated or too cold and that they have adequate air ventilation.

ALL ANIMAL BITES ARE SERIOUS! IF YOU ARE BITTEN, SEEK MEDICAL ATTENTION, AND DO NOT RELEASE THE CAT. The cat must be quarantined. Contact your veterinarian for quarantine advice. Cat bites and scratches are extremely painful and dangerous, and may require hospitalization to treat serious infection.

The rabies virus has reached epidemic proportions in the southeastern United States. Humans acquire the virus through contact with virus-laden saliva of an infected animal (dog, cat, raccoon, bat, skunk, etc.). Blood and other body fluids are a much less common source of infection. Bites and scratches are the most common routes of infection from animals to humans. The rabies virus is 100% FATAL once a person starts showing infection. There is no known treatment for rabies, either in humans or in animals. The only course of action is to give a series of post-exposure vaccinations to a person suspected of having been exposed to a rabid animal. The only definitive test to detect rabies in an animal is to euthanize the animal, remove the head, and inspect the brain tissue for identification of the virus. Human rabies vaccines are recommended for anyone who works with stray animals.

Important Discharge and Recovery Information for Caretakers
If cats are picked up the same day as surgery, they may still be recovering from anesthesia when you pick them up. Keep cats warm, covered, and in a protected place in their traps. Monitor cats periodically. Stitches are absorbable and do not need to be removed. The cats may be released the day after surgery if they are fully awake. During kitten season, lactating females should be released within 24 hours of trapping. They will still be able to nurse the kittens after surgery. If you have concerns about a cat that is slow to recover, has an incision complication, or other problem, call your veterinarian. If medical attention is needed, the cat should be taken to a veterinary hospital or animal emergency clinic.

PLEASE READ THE FOLLOWING CAREFULLY:
Please keep the cats in their traps until the next morning. This provides protection and security. This is essential for the safety of all cats, including nursing cats with kittens. Many cats will be groggy and need to sleep overnight. Please do not disturb them by reaching into the trap - they often overreact and may bite! Do not give the cats food in the trap until the next morning. They may vomit if fed. You can give them food and water the next morning when they are fully awake. Keep the cats in their traps in a comfortable area until the next morning. They are susceptible to heat and cold while recovering from anesthesia. Normal behaviors that occur during recovery include deep sleep, head bobbing, wobbly movements, fast breathing, and shivering. No cat should be released the next day if it has these signs. Abnormal behaviors during recovery include continued bleeding from the surgery area. Bleeding from the left ear crop is expected but should stop by the time of release the next day.